Most tourists who go to Granada in the Andalusia region of Spain do so for one reason: to see the spectacular Moorish palace, the Alhambra. It is, however, a large and exciting city with another very special feature. High above the city is an area known as the Sacromonte on Valparaiso Hill; it is the principal neighbourhood of the Gitano, the Romani peoples of Spain (sometimes referred to as Gypsies). Traditionally, these folk dug cave dwellings in the soft clay and rock. Over the years, this Sacromonte area became the heartland for a passionate form of Flamenco, handed down within families, and the cave dwellings its showcase.
Visit the Granada Flamenco Shows
Today many Gitano flamenco families perform for the public and it is easy to obtain package tours through hotels and tourist agencies. The packages typically include mini-bus transport to and from major hotels, entry to the performance and a glass of sangria. The return trip will often include a brief tour of the Albaicin (Arab Quarter) and lookout points. Some tours include dinner.
Caves are named for the great performers who inhabited them: Lola Medina, el Pitilin, Manolo Amaya, la Golondrina, la Faraona. One of the oldest flamenco families and most acclaimed flamenco shows is in the cave of Maria ‘La Canastera’. Such a performance is known as a Zambra in Andalusia.
A Typical Performance: The Flamenco Dancers
At the cave of Maria ‘La Canestera’, the visitors are led into a long, low, brightly-lit cave and are invited to take one of the seats arranged in a row on either side of the length of the cave, which can be narrower than a train carriage. Glasses of sangria are distributed and the Master of Ceremonies provides a welcome. The musician (usually there is only a solo guitarist) and dancers take seats at the mouth of the cave. Typically, the guitarist opens the show by demonstrating his virtuosity and the crowd settles as the dancers clearly respond to the mood of the music.
At this point, one of the dancers, arrayed in traditional polka-dot swirling skirts, rises and takes a few tentative steps. This is usually the oldest or youngest dancer in the family. Advanced age or stoutness is no obstacle to sensuality, and when the dance begins, eyes flash and the passion emerges in body and face. Each of the (usually) four or five dancers performs solo, and, for variety, duos and group dances are also performed.
The Cave of Maria ‘La Canestera’
The cave itself is a fascinating place to visit. The walls are decorated with copper utensils, curios, and historical photos of great performers and famous visitors such as the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Anthony Quinn, Ingrid Bergman and Yul Brynner. At the rear, behind a curtain, is the narrow living quarters, with double bed, where generations of dancers have lived. To visit the cave, even as a tourist, is to glimpse a unique lifestyle and history.
Pre-booking is not necessary. The hotel concierge will find tickets at one of the many shows usually on the same or next night. A night out at the Zambra is an experience that should not be missed.
